General Rabbit Care.
About your Rabbit
Rabbits have been on this planet for at least three and a half million years. Their footprints have been found in Africa in fossilised lava dust. Rabbits are found in the wild all over the world, even in Australia where they were introduced last century and rapidly became a pest.
Many varieties and colours of rabbits are available. Some of the more common ones are Dutch, English and Netherland Dwarf. Dwarf lop eared rabbits are very popular because they are docile, intelligent and appealing to look at. Despite their name they can grow quite large but make ideal house rabbits.
Giant breeds can make ideal house pets but should be avoided unless you have a lot of space. Some of the true dwarf varieties have a reputation for being bad tempered. The Angora has long soft fur that requires a lot of grooming and is therefore not suitable for children.
Is a Rabbit the Right Pet For You?
Rabbits make great family pets and are friendly and affectionate. But as with any pet they are a big commitment and need plenty of care and attention to keep them happy.
Rabbits live for about 7-10 years and need your care and attention every day otherwise can get lonely and unfriendly.
Rabbits love to have space to run around and exercise to keep them happy and healthy, so they need free time in the house or the garden for a few hours every day. They will become very bored and lonely if they are left in their hutch all the time.
They are not used to being on their own so will need a friend, or lots of your love and attention to keep them happy.
Rabbits are naturally very quiet and shy so it may take time before they fully trust you.
Young children can be a bit too rough for rabbits and they don't like to be picked up or cuddled too hard. But if the youngest members of the family remember to be gentle with them they can become great friends.
Rabbits are very scared of other animals who might want to hurt them so if you have cats and dogs please make sure the rabbit is kept a safe distance from them, even if they are just playing. However they can be socialised with other pets over time.
Rabbits are more demanding than hamsters, gerbils or guinea pigs and are not really suitable for very small children as they may bite and scratch. However they are clean, intelligent and friendly and, if properly looked after, can make rewarding company. Each variety of rabbit has its own characteristics of size and temperament. Males are often more predictable and even tempered than females, making them ideal as pets. The food bill could be 10 times greater with a giant breed compared to a dwarf and you will need much larger living quarters!
Bringing your Rabbit Home
What do I need?
Hutch
Every rabbit needs a cosy home, a place they can call their own, where they can feel safe. This is why choosing a hutch is such and important purchase and there is so much to consider in buying the right model for your rabbit and for you.
So, what makes a good hutch? Firstly the hutch needs to spacious, the minimum recommendations are 5ft x 2ft but ideally speaking the bigger the better, allowing for enough height for your rabbit to stand upright on their hind legs, this allows your rabbit space to move freely without being cramped. The hutch must have two separate compartments - a day area with plenty of light, where your rabbit can eat and play; and a sleeping compartment that is enclosed, sheltered and allows your bunny to cosy down in privacy at night time. This is vital to provide your rabbit with their own private space that you should not disturb.
All hutches should be adequately weatherproofed if they are to be positioned outside, especially during the winter. Although rabbits have snug coats they don't like to live in a draught and certainly don't want to get wet and cold so make sure you position the hutch in a sheltered place. The more sturdy and insulated the hutch the better and if it doesn't already have legs make sure you raise the hutch off the ground so the floor doesn't get damp.
Top tip: A hutch hugger or hutch snuggle will help to protect your rabbit's hutch from the elements.
Always keep your rabbit's safety in mind, and consider how secure the hutch is, is the wire mesh small enough to keep out rats? Are the door latches tough enough to deter a fox? Rabbits do have predators, especially when their hutch is outdoors so make sure it is predator proof.
Exercise is vital to keep your rabbit healthy, so make sure you purchase some kind of run and let your bunny out to play every day. A run needs to be sturdy and secure and have an area which provides shade on those hot sunny days. Rabbits can dig very well and will try to dig out, so you may consider a secure wire mesh base to prevent this from happening. The base should still allow your rabbit access to the grass.
Some hutch designs come with exercise runs included:
Be it a 2 tier hutch with a run beneath the living area or a hutch that can attach to a run that allows the rabbit freedom to enjoy both areas. A 2 tier hutch is easier for you and much more spacious for your rabbit. The added height of the top floor can be more secure from predators too.
Bedding
Rabbits require plenty of clean and dry bedding which should be replaced when soiled and changed completely at least once a week. Wood shavings and straw provide a good base, as well as hay, which is also important as a food supplement . Recycled shredded paper also provides good bedding especially for indoor rabbits.
Rabbits love to gnaw, so it is vital that you don't provide them with any bedding that could be toxic if eaten or could hurt them if chewed.
Top tip:
Put lots of bedding in their sleeping compartment so they can shape it to make their own cosy nest
Bowl:
A ceramic bowl is recommended for dry food. This should be deep enough to keep the food dry and clean.
Water Bottle:
Fresh drinking water should be supplied in a bottle with a valve at the bottom, this will help keep water clean and fresh. Make sure you change the water daily, especially in the winter months when the water can freeze.
Top tip: In winter use a Bottle Snug to prevent your water bottle from freezing over, it'll keep the water cool in summer too!
Toys
Rabbits can get very bored when you are not around to play with, so it is vital that you provide toys to keep your bunny entertained. There is a large variety of different toys available, from chew toys that are not only fun but help to keep your bunny's teeth in good condition; to toys with hidden treats that give your rabbit a rewarding challenge.
Top tip: An empty toilet roll stuffed with hay or an empty cardboard box with holes in can provide a fun toy for your rabbit so there is no reason why your bunny should ever be bored!
Feeding you Rabbit
Choosing what food to feed your rabbit can be difficult; there are so many different foods available, which one to choose? We've tried to make this decision less complicated by pointing out the key features and benefits of different foods. Obesity is an issue for domestic rabbits and food may need to be rationed:
Extruded food:
The extruded food sold at Pets at Home is a premium dry food that provides your rabbit with all the goodness they need in every mouthful.
Extruded food combats selective feeding whereby your rabbit may only eat their favourite bits out of their muesli mix and therefore miss out on the nutritional benefits of the rejected food. Extruded food includes all the same ingredients as muesli, but is mixed up, cooked and squashed into small pellets, so every pellet eaten is tasty and provides an ideal, balanced diet.
Muesli:
The traditional muesli mix incorporates the vitamins and minerals that rabbits need in various different ingredients e.g. seeds, grains and vegetables.
When you feed your rabbit check if there is any food left over and you should be soon able to tell if your rabbit is selective feeding and leaving certain bits every time.
If so, you could try feeding a little less food at feeding time so they eat the whole lot before being refilled, or, if it is becoming a serious problem switch to an extruded diet to ensure your rabbit gets a balanced diet.
Hay:
Although many foods are referred to as 'complete' none can compensate for a fresh supply of hay every day. Hay fulfils many essential functions for rabbits:
Hay provides something to chew on and keep them from being bored.
Rabbit's teeth grow continuously and can become painful if not kept short, chewing hay helps to wear your bunny's teeth down.
Hay plays a vital role in rabbits' digestion, known as a 'long fibre' hay.
Supplements
Fresh foods
Fresh foods should be introduced gradually to young rabbits to vary the diet. Small amounts of apples, cabbage or kale as well as edible wild plants like dandelions, chickweed or clover may be fed but always remember to wash them first. Young rabbits in particular can get upset stomachs quite easily from too much green food or being allowed to eat too much grass. Beware of some fresh plants that might be poisonous for your rabbit. Some common garden plants which may be harmful to your rabbit if eaten are: Anemone, Azalea, Deadly Nightshade, Poppies, Buttercups, Daffodils, Bluebells, Foxglove, Mistletoe, St Johns wort, Dahlias, Lupins, Chrysanthemums, Delphinium, Lily Of The Valley, Tulips, Iris, Lobelia, Fig, Juniper, Hyacinth, Privet, Yew, Laburnum, Ivy, Rhododendron, Wisteria, Clematis, Holly. If you suspect your bunny has eaten any poisonous plants and is visibly unwell with symptoms such as an upset tummy or breathing trouble, take your rabbit to the vet with, if possible, a sample of the plant they have eaten, that way the vet will be better able to treat it.
Treats
With teeth that are permanently growing rabbits are susceptible to dental problems, particularly overgrowth. Providing chew treats that are fun to nibble and tasty to eat will give your rabbits teeth a work out. There are lots of tasty treats available for your rabbit but give in moderation and adjust your rabbit’s main food quantity if necessary.
Rabbit Health Care
Good nutrition and housing are the key to a healthy rabbit. Avoid sudden changes in diet and temperature and keep bedding clean and dry. The hutch should be scrubbed out once a week with warm water and a mild disinfectant. The feeding bowl and water bottle should be cleaned daily.
Rabbits' front teeth continue to grow throughout their lives and if they become too long feeding can become difficult. Mineral stones, rabbit pellets and chew toys all help to keep the teeth worn down. If the bottom teeth grow over the top teeth, take your rabbit to the vet to have them trimmed
Vaccinations:
Make sure you have your rabbit vaccinated, especially against Myxomatosis and VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease) which if not prevented can be fatal. Vaccinations must always be administered by a vet, so contact your vet to book your rabbit in. Rabbits can be vaccinated after the age of 8 weeks and will require booster injections annually to maintain immunity.
Fleas:
Rabbits can get fleas so should be treated with an appropriate flea treatment such as flea drops or an insecticidal shampoo. However this treatment should only be given if there is known to be a flea problem.
Fly strike:
Fly strike is a condition resulting from flies laying eggs on a rabbit's fur; the eggs develop into maggots which then eat into the rabbit's skin causing nasty wounds which if left untreated can become serious.
Ways to prevent fly strike are:
Make sure your rabbit is always clean - flies do not like clean dry fur, preferring to lay eggs in moist and dirty fur. Check your rabbit for fly eggs at least twice a day during the summer, if you find any remove them immediately and check the area for maggots. The time taken between laying eggs and hatching into maggots can be a little as a few hours, so regular checks are vital.
Recognize if your rabbit is a high risk case and take extra precautions. Rabbits are very clean animals but an overweight or very old or ill rabbit may find keeping clean more difficult and become an easy target for fly strike.
Loose droppings provide the best conditions for fly strike so if your rabbit is suffering from loose droppings keep a close eye on them and keep their fur clean. Loose droppings can occur after a sudden change of food, which shocks the digestive system so make sure any change of food is introduced gradually.
What if my rabbit…?
Has a hard stomach and is having difficulty breathing
If your rabbit has a swollen, hard stomach and is having difficulty breathing, it may have bloat. Bloat is a very serious condition and can be fatal, so it is vital you take him to your vet as soon as possible. Meanwhile, take away all bedding and food, but make sure your rabbit has plenty of hay and fresh drinking water. Bloat is usually the result of stress or too many greens, such as cabbage and lettuce, but can also be caused by spoiled or mouldy food.
Has overgrown teeth
Rabbits teeth continually grow therefore it is important to give your rabbit something to nibble on to keep them trim. A branch of willow or apple tree, with bark left on it is ideal. Occasionally rabbits' teeth will overgrow for other reasons such as the teeth aren't at the right angle, or because of missing teeth. Overgrown teeth should be trimmed by a vet or nurse every four to six weeks.
Is breathing rapidly
A rabbit is breathing rapidly with its nostrils wide open, and has been exposed to too much sun, it is likely that your pet is suffering from heat exhaustion. In extreme cases, high temperatures can be fatal to your rabbit. It is essential that your rabbit has a shady corner in its hutch, or enclosure to prevent this from happening.
Has overgrown claws
Wild rabbits naturally keep their claws worn down by burrowing. However, pet rabbits may need to have their nails clipped from time to time, particularly if they live indoors and do not get an opportunity to dig or hop around outside.
To trim rabbits claws
Use a pair of special clippers which are available from Pets at Home. Hold the rabbit still, ask someone to help you if necessary. In light-coloured rabbits it is easy to see the 'quick', or central part of the nail where the nerves and blood vessels are, but in dark-coloured animals this is virtually impossible. Hold your bunny's foot against the light to help to see the live part of the nail. The best method is to clip off only a little cutting straight across the nail to avoid splintering.
Has runny eyes
Occasionally rabbits will have runny eyes due to dusty hay, draughts and specks of dirt. The eyes should be wiped gently from the inner to the outer corner with cotton wool soaked in warm salted water, which has been boiled and left to cool. If your rabbit’s eyes are discharging a pus-like substance and are red and swollen, take your rabbit to your vet straight away.
Has Diarrhoea
Diarrhoea in rabbits is normally a sign that he is eating too many greens or wet grass. It can also be caused from stress due to damp bedding, cold and draughts. Sometimes diarrhoea may be a result of an infection or inflammation of the digestive system. If a rabbit eats little or nothing it will soon become weak and dehydrated, tempt him with hay and perhaps a piece of brown bread or toast. Do not give the rabbit any greens or foods high in protein, but ensure it has plenty of drinking water. Disinfect the hutch and change the bedding and litter at least twice a day. If your rabbit doesn't get any better within 24 hours, then you should visit the vet straight away, taking a sample of stool for analysis.
Is shaking his head and scratching behind his earsIf the rabbit is shaking his head and scratching behind his ears, it may have ear mites. These are parasites which burrow into a rabbit's skin causing itchiness and discomfort. Typical signs include loss of fur, red or flaky skin and brownish deposits inside the rabbit's ears. Your vet will be able to provide a lotion or cream to help clear up the mites. To prevent reinfestation, clean the hutch thoroughly and change the bedding everyday. Avoid giving your bunny dusty hay or straw as these can carry the mites. Ear mites are very contagious and can easily be transmitted to other rabbits
If your rabbit shows any of the above symptoms or any other signs of illness contact your vet immediately.
Socialising and Training your Rabbit
How to handle your bunny.
Once they are tamed, rabbits enjoy human company, but prefer to sit beside you rather than being picked up. They love being rubbed or scratched gently on the nose, muzzle and ears. To pick your rabbit up, place one hand under his chest and forelegs and the other hand under his bottom and gently scoop him up, holding him firmly, but gently, close to your body. Never grab at their rear ends or pick them up by their ears.
Does your rabbit like company?
Rabbits are social animals and do enjoy company, however it is essential to neuter them if you want to keep two rabbits of different sexes together without breeding. Neutering will also reduce the aggression between two rabbits of the same sex.
Rabbits can get on well with your cat and dog if introduced slowly but always supervise them together. If you keep one rabbit on its own it will need much more of your time. We don’t recommend that rabbits are housed with guinea pigs.
Rabbits are clean animals and will wash themselves like cats. However rabbits love a daily grooming session and, for the long haired varieties, such as Angoras, frequent grooming is essential to prevent hairballs and to keep the coat shiny and clean.
Can I be litter trained?
Rabbits are creatures of habit and will quickly adapt to a litter tray, their territorial nature means they mark in the same places. Neutered rabbits will respond better to litter training so consider having your rabbit neutered before bringing them indoors. You should be choosy about what type of to use, rabbits love to nibble everything and therefore can sometimes become ill from toxic litters. A non- toxic, dust free, absorbent and non clumping litter is the ideal choice, protecting their tummies, their eyes and their skin which can all become irritated by the wrong litter. If in doubt hay or straw on top of wood shavings should do the trick.
Rabbit Care in Winter Naturally, our rabbits prepare themselves well for the onset of the dark, cold months of winter. This does not mean we can care for them any less than we do the rest of the year, actually quite the reverse. There are many factors we must consider and disregarding these can potentially lead to illness or even fatalities. This leaflet outlines some key points to make your rabbit's winter more comfortable.
Housing
If your rabbit lives outside it is important to consider its welfare through the winter. Ask yourself a few easy questions to establish if your rabbit is in the most suitable place in your garden.
Is my rabbit warm enough?
Rabbits naturally build up a thick fur for the winter and have soft fur pads on their feet, insulating their bodies against the cold so they are well prepared for the lowering temperatures. However, they still benefit from a generous supply of dry straw or hay bedding in a draught free corner of their hutch. Although it may be tempting to give your rabbit a warm and cosy blanket, this could cause illness if they were to chew and swallow it.
Rabbits do not like being in draughts, certainly not at night. If your hutch is in an exposed area or open to the elements, it is advisable to try and find a more sheltered position. Hutch covers are an easy way to protect your rabbit from the cold and wet, although you must leave some ventilation gaps as fresh air is vital. Remove the cover first thing every morning to allow your rabbit to enjoy some fresh air and valuable sunlight.
If you have just purchased your rabbit during the winter, do not house outdoors. It will not have had a chance to build up a winter coat and will not survive outdoors.
Should I bring my rabbits indoors?
Despite the cold, our rabbits are perfectly designed to live outside and although desirable, it is not essential to bring them indoors. A garden shed or outhouse is an ideal location for your hutch over the winter, as it provides shelter and protection from predators. A used garage is not suitable; engine fumes can be very harmful. A major concern when housing your rabbit outdoors is the threat from predators. You may not see these predators, they are elusive and during the winter their food is scarce. A well fenced garden can discourage them but you must ensure your rabbit hutch is secure and remember even the sight of a predator can cause death from shock.
See the section on Indoor Rabbits for tips on bringing your rabbit indoors.
How can I make the winter more fun for my rabbit?
Playtime is still very important during the winter and your rabbit still needs lots of attention and stimulation. Although you cannot play with your rabbit constantly, you can provide toys and boredom breakers to entertain your pet and you should exercise your rabbit outdoors regularly. There are many different kinds of toys available. We stock a wide range of wooden toys, and there are also plenty of homemade options. A cardboard box with 2 or 3 holes cut in to hop through, cardboard toilet roll tubes or a box of hay or shredded paper to dig in are some favourites for rabbits.
Are there any changes that I need to make to my rabbit's diet in the winter?
It is not necessary to make any major changes to your rabbit's diet through the winter. However, some foodstuffs, no matter how abundant in summer, are not so readily available. It is a good idea to feed your rabbit dried forages like dried grass and hay during this time and suitable fresh foods are available in supermarkets all year round. Good nutrition is essential for preparing for winter. It promotes the growth of a thicker fur coat for extra weight. Be careful not to over feed as this could cause obesity.
An essential point to remember during the winter months is that your rabbit relies heavily on their water supply, as during the summer they gain lots of moisture from the grass. As this is unavailable in winter there must be a constant supply of fresh, clean water. It is common, as the temperature drops , for the water bottle or bowl to freeze solid. This must be prevented, so be sure to check twice daily and add 2 or 3 drops of medicinal glycerine. If your rabbit is unable to drink and becomes dehydrated, it will lead to health problems. Equally, check on the fresh foodstuffs you feed your rabbit for signs of frost. It is a good idea to keep your rabbit's food and water at room temperature to avoid freezing.
Indoor rabbits
If you are concerned for your rabbit during the winter months, it might be the right time to begin house training and bring them indoors. It is easier than you may think to litter train rabbits, as they are creatures of habit and will quickly adapt to a litter tray. Their territorial nature also helps as they tend to mark their territory with droppings, generally in the same places. A neutered rabbit will make a better house pet as they are easier to train and more able to adapt to indoor life. Rabbits like to have their own space, including an area of their own to sleep and eat. You should aim to place their hutch or pen in a quiet area of the room and avoid disturbing them when they are inside. We have several sizes of rabbit cages available in all our stores and these are ideal for indoor use – you should always buy the largest you can. Rabbits are opportunistic feeders and may eat whilst using the litter tray, so placing their food and tray close together will allow for this.
There are a few factors you must consider when purchasing a litter as some may not be suitable for your rabbit. The ideal choice is a non-toxic, dust free and absorbent litter that will not stick together when wet (non-clumping). The toxicity is important as rabbits like to nibble and this could cause illness. An overly dusty litter can cause irritation both to your rabbit's eyes and potentially their respiratory system and a non-absorbent litter causing puddles of urine may irritate your rabbit's skin. If in doubt, a bedding material such as hay or straw, placed on top of woodshavings, is also a suitable material for litter.
You will find that your rabbit will make a fantastic house pet and will be very happy indoors. You will of course need to make a few adjustments to your home to accommodate them. Rabbits will chew through electric cables, so covering any exposed wires with protective tubing is essential to keep your rabbit safe.
Useful items for winter:
Even during winter months rabbits should have the opportunity to exercise and shouldn’t be left in their hutch for long periods of time. On mild dry days they can be put out in a run, but consider putting the run on a patio area or in a garage.
Outdoor· Hutch cover
· Rabbit toys
· Hay- bedding
Indoor· Rabbit cage
· Litter tray
· Rabbit toys
Keeping your Rabbit Indoors
Increasingly, people are choosing to keep their rabbit indoors, much like you would a dog. This isn't as strange as it may sound; rabbits make great house pets, can be toilet trained and will even great you at the door when you get home, much like a cat would do. Naturally there are considerations to make in order to bring your bunny indoors but once done you'll never want your bunny to live outside again!
So what do I need to bring my rabbit indoors?
Bunny proofing:The first consideration you should make is to bunny proof your home. Rabbits love to chew and will happily gnaw through electric cables or dig up pot plants, but there are a number of adjustments you can make for your rabbit's safety and your belongings. Moving plants out of your rabbit's reach is a wise idea and covering any exposed cables with protective tubing is essential.
Indoor rabbit cage: It is still important that your rabbit has its own space and an indoor rabbit cage is an ideal solution. It provides your bunny with their own territory in which they can eat, sleep and go to the toilet and it allows you to keep them secure when you want to do the vacuuming or let the kids run around. You should put your rabbit's cage in a quiet area of the house, away from draughts and should avoid disturbing them when they are inside.
Bedding: Recycled or shredded paper make ideal bedding material for indoor rabbits, as they will make less mess in your home. However, if you wish to use the traditional hay and straw bedding, these are fine too.
Litter tray:Rabbits are creatures of habit and will quickly adapt to a litter tray, their territorial nature means they mark in the same places. Neutered rabbits will respond better to litter training so consider having your rabbit neutered before bringing them indoors. You should be choosy about what type of litter to use, rabbits love to nibble everything and therefore can sometimes become ill from toxic litters. A non- toxic, dust free, absorbent and non clumping litter is the ideal choice, protecting their tummies, their eyes and their skin which can all become irritated by the wrong litter. If in doubt hay or straw on top of wood shavings should do the trick.
Water bottle:Fresh drinking water should be supplied in a bottle with a valve at the bottom, this will help keep water clean and fresh. Make sure you change the water daily and allow access to a water bottle whilst out of their hutch.
Bowl:A ceramic bowl is recommended for dry food. This should be deep enough to keep the food dry and clean and should be placed inside their cage so they can eat in private.
Toys: Rabbits can get very bored when you are not around to play with, so it is vital that you provide toys to keep your bunny entertained. There is a large variety of different toys available, from chew toys that are not only fun but help to keep your bunny's teeth in good condition; to toys with hidden treats that give your rabbit a rewarding challenge.
Top tip: An empty toilet roll stuffed with hay or an empty cardboard box with holes in can provide a fun toy for your rabbit so there is no reason why you're bunny should ever be bored!
With a few adjustments in the home and some time spent training your rabbit, you will find they will make a fantastic house pet and you'll wonder why anyone would keep them outdoors!
Playing with your Rabbit
Rabbits love to play and lots of different toys will keep them entertained when in their hutch or cage. Playtime is very important and rabbits like to get lots of attention and stimulation. Although you cannot play with your rabbit constantly, you can provide toys and boredom breakers to entertain your pet and you should exercise your rabbit outdoors regularly.
There are many different kinds of toys available. We stock a wide range of wooden toys, and there are also plenty of homemade options. A cardboard box with 2 or 3 holes cut in to hop through, cardboard toilet roll tubes or a box of hay or shredded paper to dig in are some favourites for rabbits.
Advice for your Giant Rabbit
Giant rabbits generally tend to be more laid back and less excitable than smaller rabbits. They are good natured and affectionate, making them an excellent pet rabbit. They are great as an indoor (house) rabbit although it is essential that they are neutered.
Giant rabbits require plenty of space due to their large size and are literally a big commitment. Please consider very carefully the space and financial demands of this type of rabbit before buying and taking responsibility for one.
A visit to the vet will be essential and we will not sell one unless you have a suitable carrier. We recommend the larger plastic pet carriers and if you buy one at the same time as the rabbit we automatically provide a discount. We do not consider cardboard boxes suitable.
Varieties of giant rabbit include British Giants, Flemish Giants, Lops (which may be German, French or English lops in origin) and Giant Papillions.
Size and lifespan.
Giant rabbits may weigh up to around 7 kg. German lops are one of the smaller breeds of giant, usually having an adult weight of 3-4kg, whilst British and Continental giants are usually the largest, sometimes achieving a weight of almost 7kg. Due to their weight, size and power they may not be suitable for young children. The average lifespan is generally less than smaller breeds and may be as little as 4 years.
In-door housing
An indoor dog crate with a plastic base can be used as your rabbits sleeping area and personal space within your home. Crates are on display in the dog section of the store and any member of staff will be happy to help. Remember all rabbits gnaw and this can include wiring so it is important that accessible areas are ‘rabbit proofed’. Wooden gnawing toys can provide hours of distraction and fun for your pet. Giant rabbits may even play with some toys designed for small dogs.
Out-door rabbits.
Hutches should be no smaller than 180cm long and 60cm high with a large run or secure garden for exercise. Many giant rabbits are housed in small garden sheds or Wendy houses sold for children. Any outdoor housing should be secure enough to protect your pet from rats and foxes.
Handling.
Due to the size of giant rabbits it is extremely important that they are handled frequently from an early age. All rabbits need to be health checked regularly and in particular this means examining its bottom to check for signs of dietary problems and fly strike. If your rabbit does not allow you to do this without a fight both of you will become stressed and you are likely to hurt each other in the process.
It is highly recommended that all rabbits are registered with a local veterinary surgeon as soon as possible after purchase. Even if they are kept as house pets, vaccinations are important and are strongly recommended.
We believe that neutering is essential. Even though they are much bigger, giant rabbits can mate with much smaller varieties which can create many problems. More importantly perhaps, neutering prevents uterine cancer in females and produces a calmer rabbit in both sexes. Un-neutered (whole) rabbits can be difficult to house train. Once they reach puberty they can exhibit undesirable behaviour such as spraying and may be difficult to handle.
Their size can also create specific health problems such are sore feet and back problems. Rabbits that do not have enough room to exercise can also become obese so the amount of food you provide should be controlled.
Veterinary care can be expensive and for this reason we recommend the principle of pet health insurance.
Rabbit Colours
I have had many people ask me what different colours are and what letters like "vm" stand for, so here is a page were you can find out about rabbit colours and other information :)
VM- Vienna Marked, is the same pattern as the dutch rabbit, most rabbits who are vienna marked have blue eyes as that is very common.
REW- red eyed white, pure white rabbit with red eyes.
BEW-blue eyed white rabbit, pure white rabbit white blue eyes.
bfy-butterfly
choc-chocolate
BRC- British Rabbit Council
Buck-male rabbit
Doe-female rabbit
Kit or Kitten- Baby rabbit
Agouti: bands of color occur on each hair - the colors of these bands vary depending on the type of agouti coloration.
Black: dark black.
Black otter: black body with lighter underside, hair may be orange tinted at the border of the black and lighter color.
Blue: medium or slate blue.
Blue otter: blue coat with fawn tipped guard hairs, fawn areas.
Blue steel: blue with silver or tan
Blue tortoiseshell: blue and beige.
Broken: white with any color patches or spots, with nose markings, colored ears, and eye circles.
Brown-gray agouti: blue at base, then medium tan, charcoal, and tan at tip.
Californian: white body with black on nose, ears, tail, feet.
Castor: brown over top, slate blue undercoat, with orange or red in between.
Chinchilla: slate or black blended with pearl, black tipped guard hairs.
Cinnamon: rust or reddish-brown color.
Chocolate: deep dark brown.
Chocolate agouti: bands of tan and chocolate with a chestnut tip.
Chocolate chinchilla: chocolate and pearl with chocolate tipped guard hairs.
Chocolate steel: chocolate with tan or silver ticking.
Chocolate tortoiseshell: creamy chocolate with fawn.
Copper agouti: bands of red/orange and dark slate with red at tip, ticked with black tipped guard hairs.
Cream: pinkish beige to almond.
Fawn: straw color.
Frosted pearl: pearl with black, blue, chocolate or lilac shading.
Gray: three different colors of hair: black, black with tan tip, and black with tan band, and slate undercolor.
Light gray: agouti with slate blue at base, off white in middle, and light gray at tip, with black tipped guard hairs.
Lilac: pinkish pale gray
Lilac chinchilla: lilac and pearl ticked with lilac tipped guard hairs.
Lilac steel: lilac with tan or silver ticking.
Lilac tortoiseshell: lilac and beige.
Opal agouti: slate blue at base of hair, then gold, then blue tip.
Orange: light to bright orange.
Pearl: light creamy gray.
Pointed white: white with black, blue, chocolate or lilac colored nose, ears, feet, tail (like a Himalayan colouring).
Red: rich brown red color.
Sable: dark grayish brown.
Sable marten: siamese sable coloring with silver tipped guard hairs.
Sable point: cream body and sable on nose, ears, feet and tail.
Sandy: reddish tan.
Seal: dark (almost black) sable
Seal point: When a rabbit is classed as n - point, this means that the extremes (points) of its body (being the nose, ears, feet and tail) are coloured and the rest of the body and belly are white/cream. The eyes of a Sealpoint/Bluepoint have a ruby glow.
Self group: solid color in black, blue, lilac, blue eyed white, and ruby eyed white.
Shaded group: color transitions from dark to light (e.g. frosted pearl, sable, sable point, siamese sable, seal, tortoise).
Silver or silver fox: silver with white or white tipped hairs.
Silver Marten: black, blue, chocolate or lilac with silver white markings and silver tipped guard hairs.
Smoke: Smoke is from the same colour group as the sealpoint, and has the same patterning as the Sealpoint and Sooty Fawn, however the main overall colouring is a 'diluted' blue (smokey grey)
Sooty Fawn: Sooty Fawn is fawn all over the body, with darker 'sooty' extremes. This pattern is very similar to the sealpoint pattern mentioned above, however, where the body is cream with a sealpoint, it is orange with the sooty fawn. It is also possible to produce 'broken' fawn (white and fawn).
Tan Pattern: marks (not necessarily tan) on nostril, eye circles, jowls, inside ears, belly, inside led, underside of tail. Groups included marten and otter colorations.
Ticking: solid or tipped guard hairs different than the main coat color interspersed throughout the coat.
Tortoise: orange with black, blue, chocolate or lilac.
Tortoiseshell: orange or dark fawn and black.
Tri-colored: white with any of black and orange, lavender blue and fawn, chocolate and orange, gray and fawn.
Otter: Otter is the name given to the pattern, and is a member of the 'Tan' pattern group. Otters are mainly seen in Black and Blue. Basically the Otter is a 'self' colour (eg. pure black or blue) over most of the body, with a white/cream belly and inside the ears, and tan colouring behind the ears, and trim of the nose and skirt (where body colour meets belly colour).
Rabbits have been on this planet for at least three and a half million years. Their footprints have been found in Africa in fossilised lava dust. Rabbits are found in the wild all over the world, even in Australia where they were introduced last century and rapidly became a pest.
Many varieties and colours of rabbits are available. Some of the more common ones are Dutch, English and Netherland Dwarf. Dwarf lop eared rabbits are very popular because they are docile, intelligent and appealing to look at. Despite their name they can grow quite large but make ideal house rabbits.
Giant breeds can make ideal house pets but should be avoided unless you have a lot of space. Some of the true dwarf varieties have a reputation for being bad tempered. The Angora has long soft fur that requires a lot of grooming and is therefore not suitable for children.
Is a Rabbit the Right Pet For You?
Rabbits make great family pets and are friendly and affectionate. But as with any pet they are a big commitment and need plenty of care and attention to keep them happy.
Rabbits live for about 7-10 years and need your care and attention every day otherwise can get lonely and unfriendly.
Rabbits love to have space to run around and exercise to keep them happy and healthy, so they need free time in the house or the garden for a few hours every day. They will become very bored and lonely if they are left in their hutch all the time.
They are not used to being on their own so will need a friend, or lots of your love and attention to keep them happy.
Rabbits are naturally very quiet and shy so it may take time before they fully trust you.
Young children can be a bit too rough for rabbits and they don't like to be picked up or cuddled too hard. But if the youngest members of the family remember to be gentle with them they can become great friends.
Rabbits are very scared of other animals who might want to hurt them so if you have cats and dogs please make sure the rabbit is kept a safe distance from them, even if they are just playing. However they can be socialised with other pets over time.
Rabbits are more demanding than hamsters, gerbils or guinea pigs and are not really suitable for very small children as they may bite and scratch. However they are clean, intelligent and friendly and, if properly looked after, can make rewarding company. Each variety of rabbit has its own characteristics of size and temperament. Males are often more predictable and even tempered than females, making them ideal as pets. The food bill could be 10 times greater with a giant breed compared to a dwarf and you will need much larger living quarters!
Bringing your Rabbit Home
What do I need?
Hutch
Every rabbit needs a cosy home, a place they can call their own, where they can feel safe. This is why choosing a hutch is such and important purchase and there is so much to consider in buying the right model for your rabbit and for you.
So, what makes a good hutch? Firstly the hutch needs to spacious, the minimum recommendations are 5ft x 2ft but ideally speaking the bigger the better, allowing for enough height for your rabbit to stand upright on their hind legs, this allows your rabbit space to move freely without being cramped. The hutch must have two separate compartments - a day area with plenty of light, where your rabbit can eat and play; and a sleeping compartment that is enclosed, sheltered and allows your bunny to cosy down in privacy at night time. This is vital to provide your rabbit with their own private space that you should not disturb.
All hutches should be adequately weatherproofed if they are to be positioned outside, especially during the winter. Although rabbits have snug coats they don't like to live in a draught and certainly don't want to get wet and cold so make sure you position the hutch in a sheltered place. The more sturdy and insulated the hutch the better and if it doesn't already have legs make sure you raise the hutch off the ground so the floor doesn't get damp.
Top tip: A hutch hugger or hutch snuggle will help to protect your rabbit's hutch from the elements.
Always keep your rabbit's safety in mind, and consider how secure the hutch is, is the wire mesh small enough to keep out rats? Are the door latches tough enough to deter a fox? Rabbits do have predators, especially when their hutch is outdoors so make sure it is predator proof.
Exercise is vital to keep your rabbit healthy, so make sure you purchase some kind of run and let your bunny out to play every day. A run needs to be sturdy and secure and have an area which provides shade on those hot sunny days. Rabbits can dig very well and will try to dig out, so you may consider a secure wire mesh base to prevent this from happening. The base should still allow your rabbit access to the grass.
Some hutch designs come with exercise runs included:
Be it a 2 tier hutch with a run beneath the living area or a hutch that can attach to a run that allows the rabbit freedom to enjoy both areas. A 2 tier hutch is easier for you and much more spacious for your rabbit. The added height of the top floor can be more secure from predators too.
Bedding
Rabbits require plenty of clean and dry bedding which should be replaced when soiled and changed completely at least once a week. Wood shavings and straw provide a good base, as well as hay, which is also important as a food supplement . Recycled shredded paper also provides good bedding especially for indoor rabbits.
Rabbits love to gnaw, so it is vital that you don't provide them with any bedding that could be toxic if eaten or could hurt them if chewed.
Top tip:
Put lots of bedding in their sleeping compartment so they can shape it to make their own cosy nest
Bowl:
A ceramic bowl is recommended for dry food. This should be deep enough to keep the food dry and clean.
Water Bottle:
Fresh drinking water should be supplied in a bottle with a valve at the bottom, this will help keep water clean and fresh. Make sure you change the water daily, especially in the winter months when the water can freeze.
Top tip: In winter use a Bottle Snug to prevent your water bottle from freezing over, it'll keep the water cool in summer too!
Toys
Rabbits can get very bored when you are not around to play with, so it is vital that you provide toys to keep your bunny entertained. There is a large variety of different toys available, from chew toys that are not only fun but help to keep your bunny's teeth in good condition; to toys with hidden treats that give your rabbit a rewarding challenge.
Top tip: An empty toilet roll stuffed with hay or an empty cardboard box with holes in can provide a fun toy for your rabbit so there is no reason why your bunny should ever be bored!
Feeding you Rabbit
Choosing what food to feed your rabbit can be difficult; there are so many different foods available, which one to choose? We've tried to make this decision less complicated by pointing out the key features and benefits of different foods. Obesity is an issue for domestic rabbits and food may need to be rationed:
Extruded food:
The extruded food sold at Pets at Home is a premium dry food that provides your rabbit with all the goodness they need in every mouthful.
Extruded food combats selective feeding whereby your rabbit may only eat their favourite bits out of their muesli mix and therefore miss out on the nutritional benefits of the rejected food. Extruded food includes all the same ingredients as muesli, but is mixed up, cooked and squashed into small pellets, so every pellet eaten is tasty and provides an ideal, balanced diet.
Muesli:
The traditional muesli mix incorporates the vitamins and minerals that rabbits need in various different ingredients e.g. seeds, grains and vegetables.
When you feed your rabbit check if there is any food left over and you should be soon able to tell if your rabbit is selective feeding and leaving certain bits every time.
If so, you could try feeding a little less food at feeding time so they eat the whole lot before being refilled, or, if it is becoming a serious problem switch to an extruded diet to ensure your rabbit gets a balanced diet.
Hay:
Although many foods are referred to as 'complete' none can compensate for a fresh supply of hay every day. Hay fulfils many essential functions for rabbits:
Hay provides something to chew on and keep them from being bored.
Rabbit's teeth grow continuously and can become painful if not kept short, chewing hay helps to wear your bunny's teeth down.
Hay plays a vital role in rabbits' digestion, known as a 'long fibre' hay.
Supplements
Fresh foods
Fresh foods should be introduced gradually to young rabbits to vary the diet. Small amounts of apples, cabbage or kale as well as edible wild plants like dandelions, chickweed or clover may be fed but always remember to wash them first. Young rabbits in particular can get upset stomachs quite easily from too much green food or being allowed to eat too much grass. Beware of some fresh plants that might be poisonous for your rabbit. Some common garden plants which may be harmful to your rabbit if eaten are: Anemone, Azalea, Deadly Nightshade, Poppies, Buttercups, Daffodils, Bluebells, Foxglove, Mistletoe, St Johns wort, Dahlias, Lupins, Chrysanthemums, Delphinium, Lily Of The Valley, Tulips, Iris, Lobelia, Fig, Juniper, Hyacinth, Privet, Yew, Laburnum, Ivy, Rhododendron, Wisteria, Clematis, Holly. If you suspect your bunny has eaten any poisonous plants and is visibly unwell with symptoms such as an upset tummy or breathing trouble, take your rabbit to the vet with, if possible, a sample of the plant they have eaten, that way the vet will be better able to treat it.
Treats
With teeth that are permanently growing rabbits are susceptible to dental problems, particularly overgrowth. Providing chew treats that are fun to nibble and tasty to eat will give your rabbits teeth a work out. There are lots of tasty treats available for your rabbit but give in moderation and adjust your rabbit’s main food quantity if necessary.
Rabbit Health Care
Good nutrition and housing are the key to a healthy rabbit. Avoid sudden changes in diet and temperature and keep bedding clean and dry. The hutch should be scrubbed out once a week with warm water and a mild disinfectant. The feeding bowl and water bottle should be cleaned daily.
Rabbits' front teeth continue to grow throughout their lives and if they become too long feeding can become difficult. Mineral stones, rabbit pellets and chew toys all help to keep the teeth worn down. If the bottom teeth grow over the top teeth, take your rabbit to the vet to have them trimmed
Vaccinations:
Make sure you have your rabbit vaccinated, especially against Myxomatosis and VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease) which if not prevented can be fatal. Vaccinations must always be administered by a vet, so contact your vet to book your rabbit in. Rabbits can be vaccinated after the age of 8 weeks and will require booster injections annually to maintain immunity.
Fleas:
Rabbits can get fleas so should be treated with an appropriate flea treatment such as flea drops or an insecticidal shampoo. However this treatment should only be given if there is known to be a flea problem.
Fly strike:
Fly strike is a condition resulting from flies laying eggs on a rabbit's fur; the eggs develop into maggots which then eat into the rabbit's skin causing nasty wounds which if left untreated can become serious.
Ways to prevent fly strike are:
Make sure your rabbit is always clean - flies do not like clean dry fur, preferring to lay eggs in moist and dirty fur. Check your rabbit for fly eggs at least twice a day during the summer, if you find any remove them immediately and check the area for maggots. The time taken between laying eggs and hatching into maggots can be a little as a few hours, so regular checks are vital.
Recognize if your rabbit is a high risk case and take extra precautions. Rabbits are very clean animals but an overweight or very old or ill rabbit may find keeping clean more difficult and become an easy target for fly strike.
Loose droppings provide the best conditions for fly strike so if your rabbit is suffering from loose droppings keep a close eye on them and keep their fur clean. Loose droppings can occur after a sudden change of food, which shocks the digestive system so make sure any change of food is introduced gradually.
What if my rabbit…?
Has a hard stomach and is having difficulty breathing
If your rabbit has a swollen, hard stomach and is having difficulty breathing, it may have bloat. Bloat is a very serious condition and can be fatal, so it is vital you take him to your vet as soon as possible. Meanwhile, take away all bedding and food, but make sure your rabbit has plenty of hay and fresh drinking water. Bloat is usually the result of stress or too many greens, such as cabbage and lettuce, but can also be caused by spoiled or mouldy food.
Has overgrown teeth
Rabbits teeth continually grow therefore it is important to give your rabbit something to nibble on to keep them trim. A branch of willow or apple tree, with bark left on it is ideal. Occasionally rabbits' teeth will overgrow for other reasons such as the teeth aren't at the right angle, or because of missing teeth. Overgrown teeth should be trimmed by a vet or nurse every four to six weeks.
Is breathing rapidly
A rabbit is breathing rapidly with its nostrils wide open, and has been exposed to too much sun, it is likely that your pet is suffering from heat exhaustion. In extreme cases, high temperatures can be fatal to your rabbit. It is essential that your rabbit has a shady corner in its hutch, or enclosure to prevent this from happening.
Has overgrown claws
Wild rabbits naturally keep their claws worn down by burrowing. However, pet rabbits may need to have their nails clipped from time to time, particularly if they live indoors and do not get an opportunity to dig or hop around outside.
To trim rabbits claws
Use a pair of special clippers which are available from Pets at Home. Hold the rabbit still, ask someone to help you if necessary. In light-coloured rabbits it is easy to see the 'quick', or central part of the nail where the nerves and blood vessels are, but in dark-coloured animals this is virtually impossible. Hold your bunny's foot against the light to help to see the live part of the nail. The best method is to clip off only a little cutting straight across the nail to avoid splintering.
Has runny eyes
Occasionally rabbits will have runny eyes due to dusty hay, draughts and specks of dirt. The eyes should be wiped gently from the inner to the outer corner with cotton wool soaked in warm salted water, which has been boiled and left to cool. If your rabbit’s eyes are discharging a pus-like substance and are red and swollen, take your rabbit to your vet straight away.
Has Diarrhoea
Diarrhoea in rabbits is normally a sign that he is eating too many greens or wet grass. It can also be caused from stress due to damp bedding, cold and draughts. Sometimes diarrhoea may be a result of an infection or inflammation of the digestive system. If a rabbit eats little or nothing it will soon become weak and dehydrated, tempt him with hay and perhaps a piece of brown bread or toast. Do not give the rabbit any greens or foods high in protein, but ensure it has plenty of drinking water. Disinfect the hutch and change the bedding and litter at least twice a day. If your rabbit doesn't get any better within 24 hours, then you should visit the vet straight away, taking a sample of stool for analysis.
Is shaking his head and scratching behind his earsIf the rabbit is shaking his head and scratching behind his ears, it may have ear mites. These are parasites which burrow into a rabbit's skin causing itchiness and discomfort. Typical signs include loss of fur, red or flaky skin and brownish deposits inside the rabbit's ears. Your vet will be able to provide a lotion or cream to help clear up the mites. To prevent reinfestation, clean the hutch thoroughly and change the bedding everyday. Avoid giving your bunny dusty hay or straw as these can carry the mites. Ear mites are very contagious and can easily be transmitted to other rabbits
If your rabbit shows any of the above symptoms or any other signs of illness contact your vet immediately.
Socialising and Training your Rabbit
How to handle your bunny.
Once they are tamed, rabbits enjoy human company, but prefer to sit beside you rather than being picked up. They love being rubbed or scratched gently on the nose, muzzle and ears. To pick your rabbit up, place one hand under his chest and forelegs and the other hand under his bottom and gently scoop him up, holding him firmly, but gently, close to your body. Never grab at their rear ends or pick them up by their ears.
Does your rabbit like company?
Rabbits are social animals and do enjoy company, however it is essential to neuter them if you want to keep two rabbits of different sexes together without breeding. Neutering will also reduce the aggression between two rabbits of the same sex.
Rabbits can get on well with your cat and dog if introduced slowly but always supervise them together. If you keep one rabbit on its own it will need much more of your time. We don’t recommend that rabbits are housed with guinea pigs.
Rabbits are clean animals and will wash themselves like cats. However rabbits love a daily grooming session and, for the long haired varieties, such as Angoras, frequent grooming is essential to prevent hairballs and to keep the coat shiny and clean.
Can I be litter trained?
Rabbits are creatures of habit and will quickly adapt to a litter tray, their territorial nature means they mark in the same places. Neutered rabbits will respond better to litter training so consider having your rabbit neutered before bringing them indoors. You should be choosy about what type of to use, rabbits love to nibble everything and therefore can sometimes become ill from toxic litters. A non- toxic, dust free, absorbent and non clumping litter is the ideal choice, protecting their tummies, their eyes and their skin which can all become irritated by the wrong litter. If in doubt hay or straw on top of wood shavings should do the trick.
Rabbit Care in Winter Naturally, our rabbits prepare themselves well for the onset of the dark, cold months of winter. This does not mean we can care for them any less than we do the rest of the year, actually quite the reverse. There are many factors we must consider and disregarding these can potentially lead to illness or even fatalities. This leaflet outlines some key points to make your rabbit's winter more comfortable.
Housing
If your rabbit lives outside it is important to consider its welfare through the winter. Ask yourself a few easy questions to establish if your rabbit is in the most suitable place in your garden.
Is my rabbit warm enough?
Rabbits naturally build up a thick fur for the winter and have soft fur pads on their feet, insulating their bodies against the cold so they are well prepared for the lowering temperatures. However, they still benefit from a generous supply of dry straw or hay bedding in a draught free corner of their hutch. Although it may be tempting to give your rabbit a warm and cosy blanket, this could cause illness if they were to chew and swallow it.
Rabbits do not like being in draughts, certainly not at night. If your hutch is in an exposed area or open to the elements, it is advisable to try and find a more sheltered position. Hutch covers are an easy way to protect your rabbit from the cold and wet, although you must leave some ventilation gaps as fresh air is vital. Remove the cover first thing every morning to allow your rabbit to enjoy some fresh air and valuable sunlight.
If you have just purchased your rabbit during the winter, do not house outdoors. It will not have had a chance to build up a winter coat and will not survive outdoors.
Should I bring my rabbits indoors?
Despite the cold, our rabbits are perfectly designed to live outside and although desirable, it is not essential to bring them indoors. A garden shed or outhouse is an ideal location for your hutch over the winter, as it provides shelter and protection from predators. A used garage is not suitable; engine fumes can be very harmful. A major concern when housing your rabbit outdoors is the threat from predators. You may not see these predators, they are elusive and during the winter their food is scarce. A well fenced garden can discourage them but you must ensure your rabbit hutch is secure and remember even the sight of a predator can cause death from shock.
See the section on Indoor Rabbits for tips on bringing your rabbit indoors.
How can I make the winter more fun for my rabbit?
Playtime is still very important during the winter and your rabbit still needs lots of attention and stimulation. Although you cannot play with your rabbit constantly, you can provide toys and boredom breakers to entertain your pet and you should exercise your rabbit outdoors regularly. There are many different kinds of toys available. We stock a wide range of wooden toys, and there are also plenty of homemade options. A cardboard box with 2 or 3 holes cut in to hop through, cardboard toilet roll tubes or a box of hay or shredded paper to dig in are some favourites for rabbits.
Are there any changes that I need to make to my rabbit's diet in the winter?
It is not necessary to make any major changes to your rabbit's diet through the winter. However, some foodstuffs, no matter how abundant in summer, are not so readily available. It is a good idea to feed your rabbit dried forages like dried grass and hay during this time and suitable fresh foods are available in supermarkets all year round. Good nutrition is essential for preparing for winter. It promotes the growth of a thicker fur coat for extra weight. Be careful not to over feed as this could cause obesity.
An essential point to remember during the winter months is that your rabbit relies heavily on their water supply, as during the summer they gain lots of moisture from the grass. As this is unavailable in winter there must be a constant supply of fresh, clean water. It is common, as the temperature drops , for the water bottle or bowl to freeze solid. This must be prevented, so be sure to check twice daily and add 2 or 3 drops of medicinal glycerine. If your rabbit is unable to drink and becomes dehydrated, it will lead to health problems. Equally, check on the fresh foodstuffs you feed your rabbit for signs of frost. It is a good idea to keep your rabbit's food and water at room temperature to avoid freezing.
Indoor rabbits
If you are concerned for your rabbit during the winter months, it might be the right time to begin house training and bring them indoors. It is easier than you may think to litter train rabbits, as they are creatures of habit and will quickly adapt to a litter tray. Their territorial nature also helps as they tend to mark their territory with droppings, generally in the same places. A neutered rabbit will make a better house pet as they are easier to train and more able to adapt to indoor life. Rabbits like to have their own space, including an area of their own to sleep and eat. You should aim to place their hutch or pen in a quiet area of the room and avoid disturbing them when they are inside. We have several sizes of rabbit cages available in all our stores and these are ideal for indoor use – you should always buy the largest you can. Rabbits are opportunistic feeders and may eat whilst using the litter tray, so placing their food and tray close together will allow for this.
There are a few factors you must consider when purchasing a litter as some may not be suitable for your rabbit. The ideal choice is a non-toxic, dust free and absorbent litter that will not stick together when wet (non-clumping). The toxicity is important as rabbits like to nibble and this could cause illness. An overly dusty litter can cause irritation both to your rabbit's eyes and potentially their respiratory system and a non-absorbent litter causing puddles of urine may irritate your rabbit's skin. If in doubt, a bedding material such as hay or straw, placed on top of woodshavings, is also a suitable material for litter.
You will find that your rabbit will make a fantastic house pet and will be very happy indoors. You will of course need to make a few adjustments to your home to accommodate them. Rabbits will chew through electric cables, so covering any exposed wires with protective tubing is essential to keep your rabbit safe.
Useful items for winter:
Even during winter months rabbits should have the opportunity to exercise and shouldn’t be left in their hutch for long periods of time. On mild dry days they can be put out in a run, but consider putting the run on a patio area or in a garage.
Outdoor· Hutch cover
· Rabbit toys
· Hay- bedding
Indoor· Rabbit cage
· Litter tray
· Rabbit toys
Keeping your Rabbit Indoors
Increasingly, people are choosing to keep their rabbit indoors, much like you would a dog. This isn't as strange as it may sound; rabbits make great house pets, can be toilet trained and will even great you at the door when you get home, much like a cat would do. Naturally there are considerations to make in order to bring your bunny indoors but once done you'll never want your bunny to live outside again!
So what do I need to bring my rabbit indoors?
Bunny proofing:The first consideration you should make is to bunny proof your home. Rabbits love to chew and will happily gnaw through electric cables or dig up pot plants, but there are a number of adjustments you can make for your rabbit's safety and your belongings. Moving plants out of your rabbit's reach is a wise idea and covering any exposed cables with protective tubing is essential.
Indoor rabbit cage: It is still important that your rabbit has its own space and an indoor rabbit cage is an ideal solution. It provides your bunny with their own territory in which they can eat, sleep and go to the toilet and it allows you to keep them secure when you want to do the vacuuming or let the kids run around. You should put your rabbit's cage in a quiet area of the house, away from draughts and should avoid disturbing them when they are inside.
Bedding: Recycled or shredded paper make ideal bedding material for indoor rabbits, as they will make less mess in your home. However, if you wish to use the traditional hay and straw bedding, these are fine too.
Litter tray:Rabbits are creatures of habit and will quickly adapt to a litter tray, their territorial nature means they mark in the same places. Neutered rabbits will respond better to litter training so consider having your rabbit neutered before bringing them indoors. You should be choosy about what type of litter to use, rabbits love to nibble everything and therefore can sometimes become ill from toxic litters. A non- toxic, dust free, absorbent and non clumping litter is the ideal choice, protecting their tummies, their eyes and their skin which can all become irritated by the wrong litter. If in doubt hay or straw on top of wood shavings should do the trick.
Water bottle:Fresh drinking water should be supplied in a bottle with a valve at the bottom, this will help keep water clean and fresh. Make sure you change the water daily and allow access to a water bottle whilst out of their hutch.
Bowl:A ceramic bowl is recommended for dry food. This should be deep enough to keep the food dry and clean and should be placed inside their cage so they can eat in private.
Toys: Rabbits can get very bored when you are not around to play with, so it is vital that you provide toys to keep your bunny entertained. There is a large variety of different toys available, from chew toys that are not only fun but help to keep your bunny's teeth in good condition; to toys with hidden treats that give your rabbit a rewarding challenge.
Top tip: An empty toilet roll stuffed with hay or an empty cardboard box with holes in can provide a fun toy for your rabbit so there is no reason why you're bunny should ever be bored!
With a few adjustments in the home and some time spent training your rabbit, you will find they will make a fantastic house pet and you'll wonder why anyone would keep them outdoors!
Playing with your Rabbit
Rabbits love to play and lots of different toys will keep them entertained when in their hutch or cage. Playtime is very important and rabbits like to get lots of attention and stimulation. Although you cannot play with your rabbit constantly, you can provide toys and boredom breakers to entertain your pet and you should exercise your rabbit outdoors regularly.
There are many different kinds of toys available. We stock a wide range of wooden toys, and there are also plenty of homemade options. A cardboard box with 2 or 3 holes cut in to hop through, cardboard toilet roll tubes or a box of hay or shredded paper to dig in are some favourites for rabbits.
Advice for your Giant Rabbit
Giant rabbits generally tend to be more laid back and less excitable than smaller rabbits. They are good natured and affectionate, making them an excellent pet rabbit. They are great as an indoor (house) rabbit although it is essential that they are neutered.
Giant rabbits require plenty of space due to their large size and are literally a big commitment. Please consider very carefully the space and financial demands of this type of rabbit before buying and taking responsibility for one.
A visit to the vet will be essential and we will not sell one unless you have a suitable carrier. We recommend the larger plastic pet carriers and if you buy one at the same time as the rabbit we automatically provide a discount. We do not consider cardboard boxes suitable.
Varieties of giant rabbit include British Giants, Flemish Giants, Lops (which may be German, French or English lops in origin) and Giant Papillions.
Size and lifespan.
Giant rabbits may weigh up to around 7 kg. German lops are one of the smaller breeds of giant, usually having an adult weight of 3-4kg, whilst British and Continental giants are usually the largest, sometimes achieving a weight of almost 7kg. Due to their weight, size and power they may not be suitable for young children. The average lifespan is generally less than smaller breeds and may be as little as 4 years.
In-door housing
An indoor dog crate with a plastic base can be used as your rabbits sleeping area and personal space within your home. Crates are on display in the dog section of the store and any member of staff will be happy to help. Remember all rabbits gnaw and this can include wiring so it is important that accessible areas are ‘rabbit proofed’. Wooden gnawing toys can provide hours of distraction and fun for your pet. Giant rabbits may even play with some toys designed for small dogs.
Out-door rabbits.
Hutches should be no smaller than 180cm long and 60cm high with a large run or secure garden for exercise. Many giant rabbits are housed in small garden sheds or Wendy houses sold for children. Any outdoor housing should be secure enough to protect your pet from rats and foxes.
Handling.
Due to the size of giant rabbits it is extremely important that they are handled frequently from an early age. All rabbits need to be health checked regularly and in particular this means examining its bottom to check for signs of dietary problems and fly strike. If your rabbit does not allow you to do this without a fight both of you will become stressed and you are likely to hurt each other in the process.
It is highly recommended that all rabbits are registered with a local veterinary surgeon as soon as possible after purchase. Even if they are kept as house pets, vaccinations are important and are strongly recommended.
We believe that neutering is essential. Even though they are much bigger, giant rabbits can mate with much smaller varieties which can create many problems. More importantly perhaps, neutering prevents uterine cancer in females and produces a calmer rabbit in both sexes. Un-neutered (whole) rabbits can be difficult to house train. Once they reach puberty they can exhibit undesirable behaviour such as spraying and may be difficult to handle.
Their size can also create specific health problems such are sore feet and back problems. Rabbits that do not have enough room to exercise can also become obese so the amount of food you provide should be controlled.
Veterinary care can be expensive and for this reason we recommend the principle of pet health insurance.
Rabbit Colours
I have had many people ask me what different colours are and what letters like "vm" stand for, so here is a page were you can find out about rabbit colours and other information :)
VM- Vienna Marked, is the same pattern as the dutch rabbit, most rabbits who are vienna marked have blue eyes as that is very common.
REW- red eyed white, pure white rabbit with red eyes.
BEW-blue eyed white rabbit, pure white rabbit white blue eyes.
bfy-butterfly
choc-chocolate
BRC- British Rabbit Council
Buck-male rabbit
Doe-female rabbit
Kit or Kitten- Baby rabbit
Agouti: bands of color occur on each hair - the colors of these bands vary depending on the type of agouti coloration.
Black: dark black.
Black otter: black body with lighter underside, hair may be orange tinted at the border of the black and lighter color.
Blue: medium or slate blue.
Blue otter: blue coat with fawn tipped guard hairs, fawn areas.
Blue steel: blue with silver or tan
Blue tortoiseshell: blue and beige.
Broken: white with any color patches or spots, with nose markings, colored ears, and eye circles.
Brown-gray agouti: blue at base, then medium tan, charcoal, and tan at tip.
Californian: white body with black on nose, ears, tail, feet.
Castor: brown over top, slate blue undercoat, with orange or red in between.
Chinchilla: slate or black blended with pearl, black tipped guard hairs.
Cinnamon: rust or reddish-brown color.
Chocolate: deep dark brown.
Chocolate agouti: bands of tan and chocolate with a chestnut tip.
Chocolate chinchilla: chocolate and pearl with chocolate tipped guard hairs.
Chocolate steel: chocolate with tan or silver ticking.
Chocolate tortoiseshell: creamy chocolate with fawn.
Copper agouti: bands of red/orange and dark slate with red at tip, ticked with black tipped guard hairs.
Cream: pinkish beige to almond.
Fawn: straw color.
Frosted pearl: pearl with black, blue, chocolate or lilac shading.
Gray: three different colors of hair: black, black with tan tip, and black with tan band, and slate undercolor.
Light gray: agouti with slate blue at base, off white in middle, and light gray at tip, with black tipped guard hairs.
Lilac: pinkish pale gray
Lilac chinchilla: lilac and pearl ticked with lilac tipped guard hairs.
Lilac steel: lilac with tan or silver ticking.
Lilac tortoiseshell: lilac and beige.
Opal agouti: slate blue at base of hair, then gold, then blue tip.
Orange: light to bright orange.
Pearl: light creamy gray.
Pointed white: white with black, blue, chocolate or lilac colored nose, ears, feet, tail (like a Himalayan colouring).
Red: rich brown red color.
Sable: dark grayish brown.
Sable marten: siamese sable coloring with silver tipped guard hairs.
Sable point: cream body and sable on nose, ears, feet and tail.
Sandy: reddish tan.
Seal: dark (almost black) sable
Seal point: When a rabbit is classed as n - point, this means that the extremes (points) of its body (being the nose, ears, feet and tail) are coloured and the rest of the body and belly are white/cream. The eyes of a Sealpoint/Bluepoint have a ruby glow.
Self group: solid color in black, blue, lilac, blue eyed white, and ruby eyed white.
Shaded group: color transitions from dark to light (e.g. frosted pearl, sable, sable point, siamese sable, seal, tortoise).
Silver or silver fox: silver with white or white tipped hairs.
Silver Marten: black, blue, chocolate or lilac with silver white markings and silver tipped guard hairs.
Smoke: Smoke is from the same colour group as the sealpoint, and has the same patterning as the Sealpoint and Sooty Fawn, however the main overall colouring is a 'diluted' blue (smokey grey)
Sooty Fawn: Sooty Fawn is fawn all over the body, with darker 'sooty' extremes. This pattern is very similar to the sealpoint pattern mentioned above, however, where the body is cream with a sealpoint, it is orange with the sooty fawn. It is also possible to produce 'broken' fawn (white and fawn).
Tan Pattern: marks (not necessarily tan) on nostril, eye circles, jowls, inside ears, belly, inside led, underside of tail. Groups included marten and otter colorations.
Ticking: solid or tipped guard hairs different than the main coat color interspersed throughout the coat.
Tortoise: orange with black, blue, chocolate or lilac.
Tortoiseshell: orange or dark fawn and black.
Tri-colored: white with any of black and orange, lavender blue and fawn, chocolate and orange, gray and fawn.
Otter: Otter is the name given to the pattern, and is a member of the 'Tan' pattern group. Otters are mainly seen in Black and Blue. Basically the Otter is a 'self' colour (eg. pure black or blue) over most of the body, with a white/cream belly and inside the ears, and tan colouring behind the ears, and trim of the nose and skirt (where body colour meets belly colour).